We couldn’t leave the Howth Prawn Festival without buying some prawns so we picked up a pound at Nicky’s Plaice. Also, we needed to satisfy a craving for sopes.  First, the roasted tomato salsa. I grilled five medium tomatoes, one halved and peeled red onion and three cloves of garlic under the broiler until blackened in spots on both sides. Whizzed the tomatoes and garlic in the food processor until blended but still a bit chunky. Stirred in half the onion chopped, some chopped cilantro, a squeeze of lime juice, a bit of salt, two toasted and torn arbol chiles and a bit of water.

Next, the sopes. I kneaded one cup of masa harina with a bit of salt and enough warm water to make a soft dough then rolled this into nine walnut-sized balls. I pressed them into 3-inch disks in the tortilla press and cooked them three at a time for 2 minutes on each side in a skillet on medium heat. After they’d cooled for a bit I pinched the sides up to form the sopes (they look like little boats) and set them aside, covered, while I worked on the other parts of the meal.

I fried a few slices of smoked streaky bacon until crisp. Into some of the bacon grease went a couple cloves of garlic and the remaining chopped red onion. To this I added a can of black beans (undrained), the crumbled bacon, cumin, oregano, cilantro and salt and left it bubbling on the hob.

The Dublin Bay prawn tails were frankly a pain. They aren’t shrimp but more like little lobsters with hard, spiny shells. I found you could pull the tail off and usually the “vein” (intestines) would come out with it. Squeezing the sides of the tail until the shell on the bottom cracked helped with pulling out the meat. They went in a pan with a few cloves of garlic and some butter. After a couple minutes they were pink and firm and I added some salt, lime juice, cilantro and a torn arbol chile and set them aside.

Finally, I heated a cast-iron skillet over medium heat with enough vegetable oil to cover the bottom. I added the sopes in one layer and salsa to the sopes. I forgot to brush the sopes with the remaining bacon grease so I did it after adding the salsa, but it should be done before adding anything. After a couple minutes the salsa was bubbling a bit so I removed the sopes to the plates and topped them with the prawns. A spoon of beans topped with cubes of avocado completed the plates.

The bottoms of the sopes were browned and crisp, the salsa was slightly smoky and spicy and the prawns sweet–a really nice combination. The beans were very bacony which played nicely with the avocado. Not sure the prawns were worth the effort to extract them but they were tasty.

Ireland on a sunny day. You can’t beat it.

We had several glorious days in April. The kind that inspire the Irish to strip down to their tank tops and go in search of a sun trap. One such glorious Saturday,  Bill and I spent the morning in Howth (not wearing tank tops) on a Fabulous Food Trail offered in conjunction with the Howth Prawn Festival. I’d seen flyers for the Dublin Fabulous Food Trail in Listons and thought it looked like a fun thing to do. But I was intrigued by the Howth version of the walk, and then followed a fun twitter report of the Dublin walk from Aoife of I Can Has Cook,  so I booked us in. Even though it meant leaving the house before noon on a Saturday.

We had a perfect day for the tour. The day was so perfect that we were compelled to repeat the refrain: This is such a perfect day. It really was. A perfect day.

We met our fabulous guides and fellow tour mates around 11:00 at the historic Courthouse building and then walked up the hill to look out over the church ruin. This is one of the first places we visited in Ireland before we ever considered moving here. (It is also the site of the great sea gull attack of 2008. Gulls are very protective of their babies camouflaged as stones. That’s all I’m saying. That,  and they battle-pooped on Kevin.)

Our Howth-native guide Roisin gave us some history about Howth: its viking inhabitants, the two-day journey from Dublin through Clontarf bandit territory, the ups and downs of the fishing industry, the arrival of the steam packet boats, and the generations-old family knots that identify fishing lines. Then the snacking began.

We started with a stop at The House restaurant for coffee and scones. Bill and I had a lovey meal at The House once, but I have to say the thing I remember most was the woman next to us freaking out about having bones in her fish. She had ordered a whole fish. Also I remember Bill being very excited about salsify. The House offers a single course meal during the week called Dinner for a Tenner and they host Jazz Dinners on Wednesdays. The Saturday brunch looked really nice as well.

Next we visited Ray Collier Butcher shop where Ray told us about the cattle they are raising on Lambay island. Organic, fed on grasses and herbs, the meat actually has an increased salt level because of the proximity to the ocean. They were ready to bring the cattle in for slaughter, but were waiting for the tides to be right to retrieve the cows.

Then we visited Ella Wine Bar for some prawn salad on toast. Ella has lots of fun wine dinners, and they also have jazz evenings. We are now on the mailing list! We’d worked up a thirst by then, so it was well timed that our next stop was a wine tasting at The Winehouse. The owner had put together a tasting of three very accessible and affordable wines: a Prosecco, a Pinot Grigio and a Nero D’avola. Fortified, we visited The Country Market, a well-stocked food store with a cafe upstairs. Joe, the owner, generously served us a dessert trio of carrot cake, chocolate brownie and fruit tartlette.

Next we we were invited into the studio of Howth artist Una Sealy. Una’s studio is in the garden behind her house, so our little band of tasters traipsed through her front hall and her lovely, sunny kitchen, past a congregation of potted pants, along a stone walkway, around a sleeping cat into a delightfully cluttered studio.

Una talked to us about what she loves about Howth and the scenes of Dublin Bay, her tendency to let people wander into her landscapes, her efforts to capture the fleeting beauty of nature into a more lasting form,  and the state of being annoyed with the shape of Ireland’s Eye. She told us the stories behind several paintings and showed us some paintings in progress. Una starts with a brown-toned image and builds up the color. The painting-in-progress below is of Howth rooftops looking down toward the water.

And of course she offered us some smoked salmon from Nicky’s Plaice (on a plate Una painted of scenes from San Francisco). Nicky’s is the choice of Howth locals. It’s where they fish, Roisin told us.

Our final two stops were a slice of pizza from the new pizza oven at the Centra and a wee glass of Guinness at The Abbey Tavern.

After the tour we checked out the Taste of Howth event happening as part of the Prawn Festival. There were about ten restaurants represented and everything smelled great, but I confess after spending the morning being welcomed into various Howth establishments with a warm smile from the owner and a plate they had prepared for me, the lines and busyness of the tasting was a bit of a drag. But it was still a perfect day, and the dishes we managed to procure with our Prawn Punts were tasty.

The Fabulous Food Trail ladies are adding Howth to their regular schedule, but Una won’t make a regular appearance. Visiting her did seem like a special event and was a highlight of the day. But even without a visit to the studio, the Howth trail will be a fun excursion, especially if you have a perfect day.

There wasn’t too much more to the Prawn festival except for some carnival rides, so we decided to grab some fish and chips from Beshoff’s and then visit Nicky’s Plaice on the way home. It was about this time that the perfect day was threatened as rain clouds filled up the sky. We could see rain falling nearby, but only a few drops fell in Howth. I hope the Prawn festival continues to grow, and takes on my suggestion for a Prawn Queen contest. Can you just imagine the crown with sprouting prawn eyes and antennae and the lovely segmented, prawn-pink cape with claw clasp? I think my friend Louise and I will enter. As she said, she’s always wanted  an exo-skeleton.

Keeping the prawn spirit, we bought some Dublin Bay Prawns at Nicky’s Plaice for our dinner.

In related sunny day news…

After our Crackbird field trip,  my work mate Barry and I made our way back to work through St. Stephen’s Green. The green is one of my favorite spots on a sunny afternoon and I love participating in “the lying upon the grass.” The green was chock full that day and it took a large dose of adult responsibility to return to the office. I asked Barry to snap my pic and a friendly tourist asked if we wanted one together, so here we are, the happy business analysis team mates.

Sunny days call for patio dining, so it happened that I had lunch at Tiesan Cafe on consecutive, sun-drenched days last week. On my first visit I had my standard Eggplant/Auburgine sandwich, and so the next day I branched out and got the lunch special–a ham and cheese omelet. The omelet was light and delicious with the salad greens. Roll on Summer! (Which according to Irish seasons started yesterday.)

Crackbird


Word of Crackbird is getting around and I’m hearing accounts of visits to the ephemeral chicken shack on Crane Lane. The lure of limited time only is certainly working for me. Several dining decisions have been finalized by saying, “Well, if we want to go to Crackbird, we need to go now. Won’t be here forever.” That’s why I loaded a crew of co-workers into a mini-van taxi for a field trip to Crackbird for lunch on Thursday.

Consensus is that Crackbird turns out tasty chicken. I’ve settled on the wings, which come only in the Soy Garlic version, as my favorite. It’s a dozen whole wings and is plenty to share. The sumptuous Soy Garlic doesn’t really need a sauce, which is a shame as I’m a fan of dipping and the attractive array of sauces are tasty (try mixing the feta and jalapeno).  A few items have been hit and miss–coffee cake was delicious with creme fraiche (evoked Southern US to me), but the ginger cake was dry; twice the slaw was really bright and refreshing, but this last time weird (flavor proportions were off). But after three visits I’d still happily return. Because it won’t be here forever.

I love the casual fun of Crackbird. The free food tweet seats we enjoyed our first visit. Picnic tables and and jars of rhubarb lemonade and handmade napkins. The simple presence of cloth napkins shows that Crackbird may be a pop up but it is not slapdash. It’s thought out and constructed to provide a certain experience–an experience I’ll happily consume. On a recent Sunday afternoon as Bill and I awaited our bucket of bird, he lifted his Pilsner Urquell (they were out of Double LL cider that day) and said, “You know, if this were a Shiner, I’d be in Austin.” He was spot on. Crackbird is quirky, but it’s the kind of quirkiness that lives in service, ultimately, to the food (along with admittedly some self-knowing hipness)–a vibe that we know as Austiny.

I’ve wondered if Crackbird would hang on longer–a final final tour if you will. Your man did say that they would be closing, but when we asked where he’d be going next he said it’s more what will he be doing next. And that, he said, he couldn’t tell us. I’d love to see Crackbird pop up every summer. Maybe if the food trailer concept ever makes it to Ireland. That would be brill.

But for now, less than 30 days remaining. Vote now, vote often. Eat Crackbird!

 

West goes East

A few weeks ago Bill spotted the following notice in the Irish Times Food file:

Galway comes to Dublin : The pop-up phenomenon continues, with the arrival a one-night-only restaurant in Dublin’s Hibernian Club on St Stephen’s Green.

It will be run by chef Martin O’Donnell of the Twelve Hotel in Barna, Co Galway, who won last November’s Bord Bia Just Ask commendation. For the night of Tuesday, April 12th, a 20-seat pop-up will showcase the local ingredients that O’Donnell uses in his cooking, such as McGeough’s air-dried lamb, Galway Bay scallops – diver-caught by the hotel’s general manager, Fergus O’Halloran – served with Barna sea vegetables and wild rabbit. The dinner is priced at €95 including wine pairings, and places can be booked by calling 091-597000.

Within minutes I had called the mysterious number and talked to several people with no clue about any pop up restaurant. But I shortly received a call back and we were booked in. Then the questions began–What does one wear to the Hibernian Club? Are they really selling only twenty tickets? Who is this McGeough fella out there air drying lambs?

We settled our wardrobe questions fairly easily and made plans to meet at the Hibernian Club. Taxi, please. Yes, to the Hibernian Club, located on St. Stephen’s Green since 1840. I had received a call inviting us to a reception before dinner, so we arrived shortly after 7:00. We were directed upstairs to the Reading Room which overlooks the green and already contained at least twenty people. We theorized then that the twenty tickets represented twenty in addition to club members.

The Prosecco was flowing freely and we had three glasses along with a shrimp canapé before moving downstairs to the dining room. Bill and I were seated at a table for two by the front windows. The dining room was full with approximately 60 people, and we were on the low end of the age range. A feat when you’re in your 40s. What ensued was a terrific dinner of West Ireland ingredients, but I’ll tell you right now, this was no pop up. I appreciate the notion that you could pop up within a 150-year old establishment, but you would have to pop up pretty hard: Sneak in in the middle of the night, have a fish fry in the snooker room or a menu made entirely of bourbon and cigars. The clincher was when I was told, very kindly and politely, that texting was frowned upon in the dining room. No self respecting pop up would ban tweeting!

That being said, I think it was a smart idea to bring the West restaurant to Dublin, and also smart for The Hibernian to open up the dinner to non-members. The serving staff, a combination of West restaurant and Hibernian employees, were outstanding. Our dinner was delightful. The glasses of delicious wines were generous. One regret is there was no discussion of the wine pairings. I think the chef intended to make a appearance earlier in the evening to describe the dinner and wines, but we didn’t see O’Donnell and his two assisting chefs until well after dessert when we were about to leave.

The Menu

Rabbit Croquette with Leek Fondue and Atsina Cress
served with Pinot Blanc, Cuvée les Amours, Hugel et Fils 2007

Galway Bay Scallops with Sea Vegetables and Peas with a Dillisk Butter
served with Pouilly Fumé, Domaine Tinel-Blondelet 2007

Beechlawn Organic Parnsnip and Smoked Bacon Soup with air dried Pork Crisp
also served with the Pouilly Fume

A Study in Connemara Lamb–Rack, Shoulder and Kidney Pie
served with Conde de Valdemar Rioja Reserva 2004

Galway Market Rhubarb crumble and clotted cream
served with Oremus, Late Harvest, Tokaji 2006

Coffee and Truffles

The standouts for me were the rabbit croquette and the lamb pie. (I am at my core a casserole girl!) The croquette contained some rabbit liver and was luscious but not heavy. And it was fried. Yum. I could have eaten much more of the leeks, and the Atsina was a nice licorice-like bite. The little lamb pie was so cute with a rich-tasting crust and intense lamb flavor. And it was garnished with a slice of air-dried lamb. McGeough, you’re a genius! The air-dried lamb was procuitto-like, as I expected, but also very spicy. Must buy McGeough air dried lamb.

The scallops were perfect as well. Bill and I reflected that scallops are a unique combination of sweet and meaty. An interesting outcome of advertising that the West restaurant serves diver-caught scallops is that the manager and scallop diver, Fergus O’Halloran, learned that it is illegal to harvest scallops using scuba gear. They can only be harvested by free diving. Or by dredging apparently.

After our experience with the West restaurant road show, I’d definitely seek them out when in County Galway. A lovely meal, especially for a Tuesday.

 

I remember once being overcome by the desire for brownies while innocently watching TV. I proclaimed my desire aloud: Gee, a brownie sure would be good right about now. Moments later Bill was banging around in the kitchen, pulling out chocolate and flour. He had to drive to the store for more sugar. But we were soon munching brownies in front of the TV. Such is the power of the brownie.

This month we’re participating in the Irish Foodies Cookalong. Very excited the chocolate theme provides a great excuse to make brownies.

There are two types of brownie people: those who like their brownies cakey, and those who prefer them fudgey. We like fudgey.

Several years ago Bill tried the Best Brownies recipe from The Fannie Farmer Cookbook and we agreed they deserved that title. Bill credits two aspects of this recipe for consistently producing excellent, fudgey brownies:

  • Mixing the eggs, vanilla, salt and sugar very well, for 8-10 minutes
  • Using no other leavening such as baking powder; all leavening come from the whipped eggs

We’re fans of Mexican flavors, so Bill likes to spice up his brownies with chile and cinnamon. He calls them Mole Brownies, after the amazing Mexican Mole sauce that includes chocolate and chiles among its twenty or so ingredients. He uses chile powder made from only ancho chiles, which is hard if not impossible to find in Ireland. Most chile powder is a mix of chiles and other seasoning that would be too savory in brownies. Adding two teaspoons of ancho powder to these brownies adds a fruity aspect with a lovely, mild afterburn. Mexican chocolate typically includes cinnamon, and we’re cinnamon nuts anyway, so Bill adds a quarter teaspoon.

The final alteration is to replace the walnuts with toasted pecans. Walnuts are great, but we’re Southerners and have a thing for pecans. The pecans in these brownies were part of our Christmas package from Bill’s mom in Alabama.

Baking with chocolate is an adjustment in Ireland. Most of our baking recipes call for unsweetened chocolate which is not common here. I just checked Darina Allen’s brownie recipe in Forgotten Skills; it calls for 275 grams of chocolate. Just chocolate. So I guess you pick the type of chocolate according to taste and play with the sugar proportion? Tell me how it’s done, Irish bakers! Chocolate in these brownies is six ounces (170 grams) of Ghirardelli unsweetened chocolate. An American chocolate the Irish can tolerate!

We’d never had a fan oven before moving to Ireland, and it’s been interesting learning how to bake with it. We learned pretty early that it is fabulous for warming up frozen pizza. But for this batch of brownies, Bill decided to leave the fan off and use bottom up heating. Twenty-five minutes at 190°C/375°F produces brownies that still look a bit wet on top, but are ready to come out.

And so, here they are, The Best Mole Brownies. They turned out beautiful with great marbling on top and edges that are chewy but not hard. Very chocolately. The chile powder and cinnamon affect the aroma, providing a great mini-breath of anticipation before you taste the chocolate. Then a little burn after. Love them!

 

Note: You can search for the recipe within the Fannie Farmer Cookbook at Amazon.com. The Best Brownie recipe is on page 628.

We had our time change on Sunday, so there is now nice stretch in the evening and Stephen’s Green is still open after work.